Sauraha's Furry Residents

A few months ago, I started off this year’s blog-a-thon by telling you how my little village of Sauraha has changed and yet stayed the same.  Now, as I’m ready to leave this home for my home in Canada, I’d like to conclude my time in Nepal by telling you about some of Sauraha’s furrier residents. Let’s start off with some of the big boys.

These are girls, actually. Male elephants are considered too unpredictable to ferry tourists into the Chitwan jungle. I am also happy to report that Mother Nature, in her infinite wisdom, made sure that elephant dung does not smell bad.  Elephant farts on the other hand…

There has been some work for the benefit of the elephants.  An American woman has started a wonderful project that ensures these big, beautiful, family-oriented animals live together in enclosed areas rather than being chained up to a post alone. Some tour offices in Sauraha are now suggesting that it would be better for the elephants to spend less time carrying tourists through the jungle when visitors can enjoy a leisurely walk on their own two feet. Once again, I strongly suggest you come to my little village of Sauraha and take a walk in the jungle

                                              

One way to get around town is to take a horse cart.  There is something very 19^th century about hearing the clip-clop of horse hooves on the newly paved streets of Sauraha.  Some of the horses are better cared for than others, which is unfortunate — but at least Nepalis aren’t fond of horse meat.

                                  

These big guys work for a living, carting tourists around the town.  It’s a lot better than being on someone’s plate for dinner.

                                                

Being a male human in Nepal is good. It’s not so good being a male of any other species.  Female buffalos make more buffalos and milk.  Male buffalos make good mo-mos.

                                                

This male goat looks sad because he knows that, sooner or later, there is going to be a festival, marriage or some ceremony that he’s going to be invited to. He won’t be attending as a guest, but will end up in many guest’s bellies. Not an ideal way to experience a party.

                                               

The same goes for these ducks. But I will tell you that there is a lot less quacking and cock-a-doodling in town after a big holiday

This misplaced camel probably knows Sauraha is no Sahara, but is powerless to do anything about it. 

The cow--sacred to Hindus--has nothing to fear in sunny Sauraha. This adorable mom and baby are revered and well looked-after. They won't end up on anyone's plate anytime soon. 

Cats, being extremely camera shy, are very hard to photograph — except for this little guy who found me a most excellent salt lick.

WELNepal’s great friend, wordsmith and dog lover Ashley was very happy to hear that the great folks from HART were back in town this year, neutering all the strays they could capture.  Street dogs are not the Nepali’s favorite animals and the dogs know it.  They keep a very low profile during the day.  But when the HART van drove through town, there was always a very angry pack of doggies still recovering from their surgeries tearing after the van, letting them know exactly how they felt about their new situation.  At least they are not on the menu at festivals.

I’m going to miss all my friends in Sauraha, human and not, as I prepare to head home to enjoy the last gasps of winter.

---David Daai

Helping Women Grow

Nowadays, woman’s empowerment and literacy is being much popular in the context of Nepal, especially in rural area where the people are uneducated and illiterate. 

I personally believed that such types of programs enhance the people in upgrading their knowledge, including recognizing the advertisement and banners in the street while they are going far away from their home.  They are also capable to expose their feelings in front of huge mass of people without any hesitation.  Moreover it is said that a woman is literate in the family, then the whole family are literate. 

With the help of these classes they can sign in respective document instead of thumb print at bank or anywhere else. 

So in my view these classes are very important for the people of rural area, for those person who are uneducated.  By the help of these classes they can learn simple language and they can read and write.  So it is great benefit for the people.

Bipana Shivakota

Bipana Shivakota wrote the above quote. She has been facilitating one of our remedial classes for the past three years.  This year she will oversee the fourth year of remedial classes for the women in her village of Kumroj.  Bipana has also just completed her final year at nursing college and will soon begin her career in a local hospital.

Her sentiment matches our own. We've blogged about the success of our remedial classes before, and fortunately there’s more good news on that front.  All 700 women in our remedial class program have completed their two-year literacy course.  These women — from 50 different classes — meet once a week in order to keep their reading and writing skills honed. The classes also let them discuss other topics and share their feelings. Here are some success stories:

Shova Adhikari

Shova Adhikari told us that one of the lessons in our Remedial 1 class dealt with uterine prolapse — a condition common to women here in the villages who have multiple children and return to arduous labour too soon after giving birth.  After reading the article and discussing the condition, three women who were previously too embarrassed and too shy to deal with the problem promptly went to the hospital for treatment. While uterine prolapse may be an uncomfortable and embarrassing condition (it occurs when the uterus slips into or partially out of the vagina), it is treatable, and it’s good that women in our classes are no longer suffering in silence.

Our remedial classes are not only about keeping the women’s literary skills sharp. Shova also told us about the death of a woman in her village of Jutpani. The woman died after giving birth to a healthy son, and the women of our remedial class were not satisfied with the doctor’s shrug of his shoulders. Their persistence in questioning the woman’s untimely death revealed that the death was caused by a hospital error.  The women were able to sue for close to $10,000 and are using the money to pay for the young boy’s upbringing.  

Sarita Dahal from Pithuwa told us that one of the women in her remedial class successfully

Sarita Dahal

filled out a complicated visa application form so she could visit family in the U.S. We’re incredibly happy she had the chutzpah and confidence to walk into the very well-guarded and somewhat intimidating American Embassy in Kathmandu. She is now visiting her family in the United States.

Sangita, a student in our Remedial 3 Class, told us that she now has the confidence to take part in local programs and has no difficulty voicing her opinion.  She also tells us that the money she is earning from our organic farming and mushroom cultivation project is going to pay for her son’s computer training. Sangita says that she has learned through her remedial studies that computer skills are necessary for attaining better positions in the working world these days.

Sangita also tells us that, although her marriage was arranged without her having much to say about the choice, she will take part in the marriage of her daughters but be much more responsive to her girl’s wishes.

Sangita

As I have mentioned in previous messages and blogs, some say that literacy classes for women are not, on average, successful.  I am very proud and happy to say those who believe that should come and meet the women in our remedial classes.

The women in our literacy class were once learning to read. Now they are reading to learn.

Meet the Kumals

The Kumal family stands In front of their little shop. Sunil is standing beside his wife Sante.  In front of Sunil is middle daughter Nalina. Sitting between her mother and father is little Sarina, and their oldest daughter, Rojina, is on the left. As you can see, the Kumals named their shop after Rojina.

Rojina with customers

Rojina is now old enough to look after the shop when her parents  are busy with other duties.  Rojina, as the oldest, is also in charge of helping her two sisters. She is an excellent student (first in her class) and is being generously supported by one of WELNepal's donors.

All three girls attend a private school. This is especially remarkable considering most parents wouldn't spend money on a top notch education for their daughters. For many, education is still seen as wasted on women. Fortunately, Sunil and Sante feel differently. Sunil's family, back in the remote village of his birth, still urge him to try again for a son, but Sunil tells me that he is proud of his three girls and does not want or need any more children.

Line of shops

The Kumals sleeping space

All five Kumals live in one room in the back of their shop. The pictures tell the story.  As you can see, all five sleep together.  There are a few posters and photos on the bare brick wall. The room is also crowded with shop stock, and since Sunil and Sante need to sell locally-produced liquor to eke out a living, that one room also serves as a bar.  Sunil tells me that there is no drinking allowed in their living quarters until the children have finished their homework. You would be forgiven for wondering where the drinkers even sit! 

When it comes to poverty, the Kumals are not the exception — they are the rule. ALL families that operate rental shops live the same way.

Outhouse

Kumals kitchen

All of the families use the outhouse at the back of the shops and share one water pump that provides drinking and washing water. Sante and the rest of the women go to the river to wash their clothes, which is difficult and time-consuming.

Despite the difficult living conditions, it’s encouraging to see families valuing education above all else — especially when they’re going against the grain and educating women and girls. 

Madi

David Daai on route to Madi

This year, WELNepal is at last fulfilling a long-standing request to bring its projects to a remote area of Nepal. 

We chose Madi.

Madi is indeed remote.  Most of the route to Madi is a semi-paved, semi-graveled, always potholed road that is jarring and teeth-rattling.  Even the Nepalis call the road bad (and they’re remarkably tolerant of tough terrain!).

The last 10 kilometers of this poor excuse for a road takes travelers through the beautiful Chitwan jungle.  I wanted to stop and listen to the sounds of said jungle, but I was told that those sounds were made by wild elephants, rhinos, sloth bears and tigers — none of which take kindly to visitors.

Until recently, the only way to access to Madi was through and into a shallow river.  There was

Madi road

no access during the monsoon when the shallow stream became a rushing torrent. Fortunately, a bridge has been built over the Rapti River that will allow year-round access for vehicles and motorcycles and trucks carrying Madi’s goods and produce to and from the once insular community.

Madi is a little piece of Nepal surrounded on three sides by India.  One has to travel north over that river to stay in Nepal, and how Nepal managed to keep that little chunk of land for itself and away from powerful India is beyond me because Madi is absolutely beautiful.  It’s peaceful and serene, with fertile fields stretching as far as the eye can see.  When I was there, those fields were green with vegetables and mustard plant and wheat.  Madi is primarily farmland. There are few roads and only one lodge. There are few buildings over one story high. There is no electricity, but there are friendly, kind and warm-hearted Nepali people who rarely see people like me in their district!

So while Madi is a perfect place for growing things, it is not such a good place for advancing the lives of women.  That’s why we went there, down that bumpy road, at only minor expense to my back and behind.

Last year, Raj (WELNepal’s coordinator) and I visited Madi to meet the local women’s groups.  We were honored with garlands and red tikkas on our foreheads and festooned with flowers.

Women of the Dalit (untouchable) caste 

This year, every group of women met us with the same ritual.  I like the garlands; I don't mind carrying around the bag of flowers that I am presented with (it's not good manners to leave flower offerings behind); but I'd rather not have red powder smeared all over my forehead.  The powder goes everywhere and as a man with white hair, I eventually wind up with pink highlights.

Our budget limited us to 10 literacy classes in Madi.  A literacy class should be no more than 30 students, but in the village of Nayapiparia, more than 50 women showed up to register for the class. Knowing from past experience that it would be too hard to decide which 25 or 30 women would not be able to learn to read and write this year, I quickly relented and budgeted for two classes.

Two of the classes will be for the women of the Dalit (or untouchable) caste.  A photo of one of those classes is shown above. The women tell me that they will be able to study after working in the fields for land owners. Their salary of 200 rupees a day (a little over $2) is much needed to put food on the table.

Sita Sharma

Sabita Bahal

The coordinator for our classes in Madi will be Sita Sharma (left). Sita is a member of the Tri-Sakti women's group, a group formed to work for the advancement of the lives of women in Madi. But our true "ace in the hole" for this project is Sabita Bahal (right). Sabita is a past president of the Tri-Sakti women's group and a former member of the Nepali parliament.  She is a much respected and honored person in Madi.  Since she was the impetus for bringing WELNepal to Madi we're confident our literacy classes will be successful. 

Clothing Drive

Greetings friends and supporters!

Late last fall, WELNepal decided to reach out to local schools and see if any kids were interested in donating clothes to the little ones in David Daai's village.

All Saints Catholic Elementary School, located in Mississauga, Ontario (just outside of Toronto), more than came through for the kids in Sauraha and  the largely impoverished Malpur. 

David gave two brief presentations to the youngest and oldest students in the school, and much to our delight, hundreds and hundreds of clothing items came in over the next few days. We got more shirts, shoes, pants, jackets, hats, mitts and socks than we ever dreamed possible and the kids in Nepal were overjoyed to receive their new clothes when David landed in his village in January. 

Everyone at WELNepal owes a huge, enormous Thank You! to Trustee Sharon Hobin, Principal Nancy Levey and all of the students, staff and parents that made this incredible clothing drive possible. 

Here are some pictures of the Sauraha and Malpur kiddies enjoying their new threads.

This girl is showing off her new uniform in the impoverished village of Malpur

Sauraha 2014

View of Sauraha

Sauraha, a little village that sits on the outer edge of the Chitwan National Park in the lowlands of southern Nepal, slept through most of the last half of the 20th century.

Historically, there was no way for vehicles to access Sauraha.  The few

A working Sauraha girl

tourists who came to stay in the village — a jumping off point for trips into the national park to see the rhinos and sloth bear and, if they were lucky, the royal Bengal tiger — had to negotiate a rickety walking bridge that traversed the Rapti River.  

That was then.

Sauraha is not sleeping anymore.  In fact, it is wide awake and rarin' to go.

Since a big bridge was built to open access to Sauraha, oxcarts and horse-drawn wagons have been replaced by motorcycles, tourist buses and automobiles.

A wild Chitwan rhino

The first time I came here, 18 years ago, the few lodges that catered to visitors used noisy generators to light rooms and dining halls.  A person needed to be careful not to bump into a rhino in the village after the sun went down. Now electricity is not only used to light over 100 lodges and hotels, but also to electrify fences to keep the rhinos in the park and away from unsuspecting tourists.

And downtown Sauraha, an area that once closed down at sunset, is now alight with restaurants and shops and the sounds of Bob Marley and Guns N’ Roses often fill the air.

Local lodges

Of course, all of this "progress" is a mixed blessing.  The commercialization of my little village has caused only a little loss of innocence.  Please know that Sauraha is not yet ready to challenge the Las Vegas strip or Monte Carlo.  In fact, the next step up would be street lights.

But the growth is good for the local folks.  Everybody is working in the tourist business.  Even the women are earning a few bucks washing hotel sheets and pillow cases — although I'm sure they aren't being paid very much, unfortunately.  Any Trade Unionists out there are more than welcome to come and organize the "downtrodden masses”.

Regarding the value of land around these parts, the talk is that "one could buy a house in Sauraha or a condo in New York." What’s even better? Almost all of the roads are now paved! 

With comfy hotels and lodges, a stunning national park, navigable roads and restaurants, it’s really becoming the place to be. You (yes you, dear reader) should come visit sometime. The people love visitors, and it’s good to boost the local economy (especially one that’s slowly employing more women).

Stay tuned for more reports from my little village.

Namaste,

David Daai